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Wednesday, November 4, 2009

how to fix dv6000 No Video No Wireless issue

DIY dv6000 no video issue fix, DIY dv2000 no video issue fix, DIY dv9000 no video issue fix, DIY V3000 no video issue fix, DIY V6000 no video issue fix, 3 beep's no video, dv6000 penny fix, dv9000 penny fix, dv2000 penny fix.



HP DV6000 BGA re-flow / reflow

How to Fix dv6000 No Video No Wireless issues Nvidia Video Chip Separating from the system board.

How to Fix No Video issues with a Penny??? Spend a penny save 350$ dollars??

Did you want a video .... read through the post and check the end

This issue affects HP Pavilion dv2000, dv6000, dv9000, tx1000, and Compaq Presario V3000, V6000 series notebooks.


***Now here is a NEW video showing the DV9000 done in under 15 min check it out***

Click Here for the new Video








This will also give you symptoms of no wireless connectivity or loosing the wireless card.. or the system will loose the dvd/cd rom before the chip will entirely go out ... lots of different problems can be attributed to this issue .. they all have something to do with the Nvidia ChipSet.



***** "The Best things in life are Free" (quote from somewhere idk)..... but if this site has helped you in any way ....

DONATE!!!!

or buy a guide...
*****


Directly from HP's web site
HP has identified a hardware issue with certain HP Pavilion dv2000/dv6000/dv9000 and Compaq Presario V3000/V6000 series notebook PCs, and has also released a new BIOS for these notebook PCs, version F.39 for dv2000/V3000, and version F.3D for dv6000/dv9000/V6000

The first thing you should do if you are experiencing these issues is
to go directly to HP's Website and see if you fall under their extended limited warranty just click on the link I have provided for you.

Now Available a PDF Download The DV6000 Video Fix AD Free and in Printable format including the DV6000 Tear-Down guide for 3$ dollars, all for less than a cup of coffee at Starbucks ;).






Now if you are not covered under warranty any longer ... HP will help you at a cost .. it could be over 350$ dollars plus shipping and handling. With that type of cost you may as well just go out an purchase a new computer.

If you really decide to do that SEND ME YOUR COMPUTER I WILL TAKE IT!!!!

****Warning CYA stuff again this will void your warranty (if you still have one) and can render your laptop useless if you do something wrong if you are not comfortable taking this or any electronic product apart have a qualified Service Technician do if for you I take no responsibilities if you decide to to this your self. There is always a risk of electrocution as well capacitors can retain a charge and the power supply as well as the battery should be removed when any repair is made. (have to do this warning just a CYA thing) OH BTW DON'T DO THIS (ok that should cover me)********

But you can follow the previous posts dv6000 disassembly Part 1 and Part 2.

Also there is a guide here for the DV9000 series 17" laptop tear down


DV2000 series Tear-Down guide can be found here.


After Part 2 of the DV6000 post or the last post of the other DV tear-down guides, you will have access to the system board ... you will need to take off the Heat Sink and fan assembly if you have made it this far you should be able to do that with no problem.. as well I would remove the processor from the ZIF socket.. and you will have this.


Now Available a PDF Download The DV6000 Video Fix AD Free and in Printable format including the DV6000 Tear-Down guide for 3$ dollars, all for less than a cup of coffee at Starbucks ;).





The chip that is causing the problem is circled .... thats the Nvidia Video Chip. To be honest it is not Nvidia's issue don't blame them it is actually the manufacturing process of the system board that is at fault the chip is fine and works great. During assembly the chip is attached to the system board via BGA soldering (Ball Grid Array) because of the heat generated by the video chip if heat is not wicked away properly and the proper amount of flux that was used the small solder joints under the chip will melt and eventually separate and no longer have contact with the chip and the system board.

As you were taking the Heat Sink off you may or may not have noticed the little squishy pad on the heat sink that was covering the video chip. IMO here is your first problem. As the system heats up over time this little pad expands and contracts it has some stickiness factor to it and will pull on the chip as it contracts when it cools.. this could be pulling the solder joints away under the video chip.

Regardless of if you are having the video issue or not this needs to be replaced.

*****Rant in my life time things have been fixed with bubble gum, bailing wire, and the almighty Duct Tape. Don't laugh at anything I will put in these blog postings... they work and have been tested repeatedly.... *********

With that said the best replacement for that pad I have found is a piece of copper with thermal paste applied to both sides to conduct heat away from the chip to the heat sink.. This will ensure that there is no flexing or expanding or contractions to break the solder joints.

So where can I find a piece of copper that will fit under there??? that is the right size?? Odds are pretty good you may have one in your pocket or in your change jar at home...

It's a Penny

Not just any Penny though it must be mostly cooper Penny.

Bit of History here the U.S. Mint in 1983 started making pennies with 97.5% Zinc with copper plating. Previously 1982 and earlier the pennies were made with 95% copper with the remaining 15% of Zinc and other metals.

Zinc will just not do so find an older penny and use it.


Now Available a PDF Download The DV6000 Video Fix AD Free and in Printable format including the DV6000 Tear-Down guide for 3$ dollars, all for less than a cup of coffee at Starbucks ;).





*** Yep another Warning ... Defacing US currency is indeed illegal.
According to:
United States Code
TITLE 18 - CRIMES AND CRIMINAL PROCEDURE
PART I - CRIMES
CHAPTER 17 - COINS AND CURRENCY
333. Mutilation of national bank obligations
so don't do it******

The surfaces of a penny are pretty smooth and may make enough contact to conduct the heat desired to the heat sink or use something else similar sized that you can sand and lap to a smooth finish. And just using a penny will not deface it and after the computer has finished its usefulness you can still use the penny.

*** Rant what about those machines you find in the Museums that mash pennies with a picture or advertisement.. Is that not defacing U.S. Currency????? end of rant ****



Here is a close up of the video chip it self.. for some reason or another HP made different revisions of the same board yours may look a bit different.. The red silicone was an attempt on their part to eliminate the separation issues but this will not help if the heat sink pad is not removed and replaced with something else.

Do not try to remove the red compound that has been placed around the video chip .. it is very hard and you may end up damaging the systemboard in the process. This procedure has worked with the red compund intact and on boards that do not have the compound.

HP also adjusted the BIOS with a flash that will keep the fans running to wick heat away that also proved to be ineffective IMO as well.

Ok now that you have the board out and know why ... How do we fix it..

Well the most permanent way to fix your issue is to send the board out for Re-Flow... there are numerous companies out there that will do this for you usually the cost is 50$ plus shipping and handling. You can find them on Fee-Bay (E-Bay) or you may be able to find a circuit repair shop in your local area ... google it..

or

There are 2 ways you can do it at home... ****Warning ... eh you know already ... never mind*****

This may be a temporary fix may or may not hold for long but worth a shot

If you have removed the memory ... which you really did not have to, to get the board out. Put it back in


Now Available a PDF Download The DV6000 Video Fix AD Free and in Printable format including the DV6000 Tear-Down guide for 3$ dollars, all for less than a cup of coffee at Starbucks ;).




Remove the pad that goes between the heat sink and the video chip ... now you definitely will see a gap between the chip and the heat sink when you reinstall the heat sink ... make sure you use thermal paste on the processor .. we don't want to damage that... BTW clean all the hard gooped up thermal compound they used its crap .. use Artic Silver the best stuff.. connect the fan so you know its on.

Reconnect the Power Cables. flip the board over place the LCD panel flat and close enough so you can watch it.

Find the Quick Launch Bezel and just attach the ribbon cable for the power.. it is the left ribbon cable.

Plug the computer in ... and turn it on ... you will still get either the beeping or no video ... let it sit.. ON for a bit less than 2 or 3 min.

Turn it off ... immediately turn it back on ... wait for it .... wait for it ... did it post? if not try again for 5 min.

If it did ... and you see the wonderful HP logo ... shut it off .. disconnect the power, the Quick Launch ribbon cable and the LCD panel flip it back over take the heat sink off ... put your piece of copper on top of the video chip (with thermal paste) reattach the Heat Sink flip it back over reattach everything and test it ...

is it still posting??? re-assemble and use

Now a more permanent fix or if none of that worked.... requires a Heat Gun, another bit of metal about the size of a Quarter .. (funny how useful money really is) and a bit of silver solder.

put the metal on top of the video chip directly with a bit of wound up solder on top so it won't blow away .. usually uses a glob of artic silver to conduct the heat between the chip and the metal.

*** Some Folks are confused as to what does the Quarter sized piece of metal and the silver solder do. Well this is my (back yard mechanic) attempt at gaugeing the heat that will be transfered to the video chip and the BGA below the chip. If the metal on top gets hot enough to melt the silver solder odds are good that the chip is getting hot enough to melt the BGA and effectivly re-joining the chip to the system board. **

Be very careful ... it will take a blink of an eye to melt plastic components surrounding the video chip.. so stay away from them with the heat gun.. this is a delicate process again DO NOT DO THIS but if you chose to it's your computer not mine.

You would be better to send it out to a certified Re-Flow company.

*** Before you start with the heat gun there is plastic (wrap for no better explination) sheilding all over the system board .. carefully remove anything that will melt and create a mess and bad smell. Just make sure you put it back where it was after you are done. ***

start by heating the chip side about 5 inches away from the board for bout 30 seconds .. depending on how hot the heat gun gets..

you should have it close to a ledge so you can do the same to the bottom side.. 30 seconds or so ..

then start on the chip again..make sure the board is flat and level at this time. moving the heat gun closer ever 10 sec or so .. till the solder melts... if it melts too quickly you just got the heat gun to close to fast .. but just hold it there for another 30 sec to a min.. pull back for about another 30 seconds at 5 to 6 inches ...

Let cool.... for 30 min or more ... and test .. Just like above... if it works reassemble with your copper between the heat sink .. and your computer can be used... Waaahooo.


Now Available a PDF Download The DV6000 Video Fix AD Free and in Printable format including the DV6000 Tear-Down guide for 3$ dollars, all for less than a cup of coffee at Starbucks ;).












For More Great info on Laptop Repair Tips Hit Repair4Laptop.org the author is also the same guy that started tuxmobile.org

To find that long lost friend search4me.ws

114 comments:

CE - Thank you for this. I have one question, though.

Let me preface it with this:

I Re-Flowed my chip and now have video. Now my laptop shuts off after 20 - 30 seconds.

Did you smooth the surface of your penny? I did not, but I used Vinegar and Salt to clean the penny before I put it on there. I also used Arctic Silver 5 between the chip, penny, and cooling tube from the fan.

The only thing I can guess is that the laptop is overheating.

So did you smooth the penny or not?

In Responce to Dan,

On a couple of the DV series I did smooth them, I have not run in to the issue you are seeing ... I would ensure that the cpu is making good contact with the heat sink .. mostly I do not have to do anything other than re-flow and use a bit of copper instead of the thermal pad HP and Compaq used.

Hi
I'm about do do this to my DV6000 laptop hope it's going to work..

1 question tough, do i have to put anything on the CPU itself (like artic silver 5) between the heat sink and the cpu?

thanks for the detailed info..

Jack,

There may be foil or clumped up thermal compound on the heat sink for the cpu you will want to clean all of that off and use artic silver on the cpu as well.. any where the computer needs to transfer heat should be cleaned and new thermal compound should be applyed.

Good luck

Thanks for all the info on this dv6000 modification. The tear down instructions really helped.

One thing to note on the DV6258se that I modded is it had a copper shim on the GPU. But after adding Arctic Silver 5 and reinstalling the heat sink, the found that GPU was not even touching the shim!!! So I sanded a old penny down to fill the gap. So for anyone else doing this mod, check the GPU contact on the heatsink before reassembly.

On boot up, pre-mod, I was getting a GPU temp of 80 C. Post mod, I am now getting 40 C.

Thanks so much for your efforts on this blog!!!

OK, I've got my penny sanded down (the first one left too much of a gap I fear. I'm going to try this fix this weekend and let you know how it goes.

Thanks,

Dan

You saved my $1500 laptop! thank you.

It took me a while since I have never opened up a laptop.
temperature dropped from 75C to 48C
big difference, for a dv9700

There is only one problem now...
It won't charge the battery, but I'm pretty sure it has to do w/ it being discharged for about 6 months.....thats when it broke down...
So I guess im buying a new battery.

I actually bought another one to replace it...now I have 2 :D
Thanks again.

Thanks for posting this CE.

I had found a number of youtube and posts describing how to perform a fix but I think that yours was by far the best.

Using the quarter, the thermal paste and the solder to was an awesome idea. It not only ensures that you have heated the components to the right temperature, it also shields the other small components on the GPU board from the air from the heat gun.

My wife's laptop is now working again (which is always a good thing).

For others that may be doing this...
I was able to download the service manual for my DV9000 from the HP site. This will give you detailed instructions on disassembling the laptop.

And FWIW, I didn't sand my penny. It's only been about 12 hours so we'll see how it goes but so far so good.

I have a dv6308ca which had a load fan and really heating up, so i followed your guides and opened the whole thing up and cleaned the fan with alcohol to clean the old compound which was hard as a rock lol and used compressed air. Then used a 1980 Canadian penny (not sanded) with zalman compound and also on cpu and installed back.

So now it runs very quite like new and here are my Temps:

Before: *CPU:46c-75c *GPU:67c-90c
After: *CPU:35c-60c *GPU:50c-74c
The second temps are when at max usage.

Now I would like to know how to sand the penny if I want to redo this procedure after 6 months.

Thanks alot for the guides.

I took apart my computer, reflowed the chip and tested it and the computer booted up without a problem. I finished putting everything back together and now when I push the power button, nothing happens. No lights... nothing. I disassembled everything looking for something loose and never found anything.

Any thoughts?

Justin,

If you are not getting any thing from the power button do the quick launch buttons either the dvd or quick play work?

The reason I ask is due to the fact that the ribbon cables to the power swithch and the quick play buttons are very fragile ... as noted in the tear down guides .. if you are not very careful with them you may be hitting ebay to get a new set.

Try taking the keyboard off again and testing the ribbon cables. and switching them use the cable from quick play on the switch .. if its a dv6000 the both face up but if its the dv9000 memory serves correctly the power cable faces up (silver side) and the quick launch face down... and the DV2000 only has the cable for quick launch.

Let me know if you get any where with it.

Not having any luck using either ribbon in either position.

When I plug in the power cable the led around the power port turns blue, but that's the only thing that's happening.

It doesn't seem to matter what buttons I push, nothing happens.

Justin,

Where did you end up? I would say either the ribbon cables are bad or something shorted out when you were putting it back togather...

Have you ordered new ribbon cables?

Is the system still down? The unfortunate part about all of this is the fact that I can't look at it my self. And there are some instances that the systemboard is so far gone.. it must be replaced.

to rule out the power coming in to the board via the power supply I do keep a good battery around to test for similar problems


good luck and let us know how its going

13 bucks later I had 5 new cables in my possession and the system booted right up!

After being up and running for about 3 days the problem with no video emerged again. I suspect I may not have done a good enough job of re soldering the chip so I'm going to take it apart and do it again.

I held the heat gun at an angle as opposed to completely vertical to the board.

I also used an alternative heat paste, so I'm going to hunt down the arctic silver and try this again.

I used a 1979 penny and wire brushed it clean (removed all the tarnish) but should I sand it down to a smooth surface as well?

Justin,

Great job with the ribbon cables ... I thought that may be the issue.

As for the penny I think my research on the age was correct but .. just incase while you are hunting for the artic silver .. hunt for an older penny. most of the ones I have used are from the late 60's they seem to work the best.


Good luck with your project.

CE,

I know this is a stupid question but do you leave the quarter in place and put the penny on top when you replace the heat sink? Or do you remove the quarter and just use the penny? Thank you.

-Patrick

Patrick,

No such think as a stupid question.. if I was not clear.. that is my fault ...

You should remove the Quarter and just use the penny...

The Quarter is only used to transfer heat and gauge the heat transfer with the silver solder.. after the re-flow is compleated and has cooled for 30 min or so .. prep the Penny and the heat sink with new thermal compound and put the penny in place of the thermal pad that HP used.

re-install the heat sink.. and test.

Hope this helps.

CE. Sorry for the delay but it worked! Thank you. You are a very smart person.

One tip about sanding the penny- I drilled a 3/4" recess in a wood board which is just large enough to hold the penny. A belt sander had it totally flat in about 20-30 seconds.

Wow, used the quarter trick and now I have a working DV8330 that was donated to me. Updated the bios to fix the fan now lets hope it stays working. Awesome. Thanks!!!!!

Hay,

Thanks a lot for this valuable information. I was frustrated with my dv6000 and then I came across this great forum. Your method saved me lot of $$$. I did the reflow like you said and now I am getting the nice HP logo. Now I will assemble the laptop and see if it keeps on working.

Thanks again,



Kashif.

It took a long time to get back to it, but I reflowed the chip again, and it seems to be working again. I found a penny from the 60's and used that along with the heat transfer compound from arctic silver.

I didn't sand the penny smooth, so lets hope that isn't my undoing in this project.

Thanks for all your help!
Justin

Greetings!

I have an dv6154eu with a cracked screen. My problem is that when i press power on, the lights go on(except the quickplay buttons)I've tried to use an external screen(fn + f4), but nothing. Would you say it's the the chip and i should reflow? Or should i try something else first? Oh and sometimes it beeps 3 times, like one long beep and two shorter ones.

Thank you for the very useful article and kind feedback.

Jaanus,

I would say if you are not getting video even on an external monitor and the screen is cracked.. You do probably have the video chip issue as well with the laptop. But with that said it sounds like there are more issues with the computer if you are also not getting the quick launch buttons to light up. To be honest it mey just be time for new.

but if you wanted to try and repair it I would start with the video chip, see if an external monitor works. Then get a new screen and ribbon cable for the quick launch buttons ( who knows the cable may just be loose??)

Did this unit get dropped?

Good Luck

It's amazing !!! It really works !!! It took me time to disassemble.
I reflow the chip with a heat gun and place a penny between the heat sink end the GPU. It works at the first trial !
You save me a lot of money !!! I will donate 2$.Thanks a lot again.

The only thing I dont like about this method is its only tempory, because even though your reflowing there are still pieces of solder missing & has melted away over time & thats one reason why the contact points are coming up short.

So the reflow method may last from 1 week to 6 months.. but the replace chip method combined with the new cooling strategy could last for many years.

Is there a more permanent fix like replacing the chip all together.. where can I buy the replacement chips, from china?

how do I identify the code number of the chip for ordering? most chip sets have the model like 'nforce 560' but never the code number which is used to order like "mcp67m a2".

how do you remove the chip & red silocone? how do you resolder the new chip & reapply the red sillicone.

can you make a video.. Ill pay you

In responce to Anonymous, as far as how long the fix will work .. only time will tell. my wife has been using one of the original dv6000's that this was based on .. and she had been using it daily for almost a year up untill I upgraded her to a faster more compact dv2000se about a month ago.

I don't know, and can not atest to loss of solder as I do not have an x-ray machine like some of the companies that offer the re-flow service but that is also another reason for the penny it will apply a bit more constant pressure to the chip to prohibit the separation from the board.

Changing out the actual chip would not be nessasary either, the chips are fine.. but there are also companies that offer a re-BGA process where they remove the chip entirely and apply a new BGA (Ball Grid Array) but this is above an byond the scope of a DIY repair. It requires special equipment and a clean room ... there are clips out on the web that show the processe .. you should easily be able to find them via google.

also you referanced the Nforce chip ... the system chipset is not the issue in the affected systems it is the Video Chip .. for example the Nvidia GeForce 8400m GS in the DV2500.

Hope this answers some of your questions

Thanks for everything, i bought myself a heatgun and some thermal paste and reflowed the chip. At first i was a little bit afraid how the motherboard would take all that heat. It was burning hot when i finished. Anyway i waited for a half an hour, and bam it worked. I got a picture on external monitor. It needs some more work though. When i switch it on the fan spins for a second and then shuts down. Im guessing thats not normal and the cooler should be replaced. Otherwise it seems nice and dandy. Except for the screen.

Encouraged by my previous success i got my hands on an another dv6000 which i had bought earlier for about 80 bucks in american currency. It had the same problem as the previous guy, kept restarting over and over, also no video. Fired up the ol heatgun and bam, typing this very comment with the lucky pavilion. Anyway...i have a question about the temperatures. What is the normal idle cpu/gpu temperatures. After some heavy surfing on the web i am looking at hardware monitor readings: cpu(tl-56, 1.8ghz) min 38 max 54.and gpu(go7200) min 46 max 50. Is that good or should i be able to do better. Is there a peak temp that i should be aware of, and keep below of?

All the best.
Jaanus

I've got a HP dv9410us. No video problems but it does have the "no wireless" issue. Should I be messing with the video chip now to fix the no wireless problem or is there similar faulty solder joints associated with the wireless card- slot to board mount? I just don't understand the connection between the two if I'm supposed to reflow the video chip to fix the wireless. Thanks.

In Response to another Anonymous comment,

A lot of system functions do go through the Nvidia GPU and to be honest I do not have a schematic layout of how they are related. One of the systems is the bus for the wireless card.

As to the question of faulty solder joints on the wireless card. I have not had an issue with any bad joints here .. and any wireless issues I have seen were fixed with re-flowing the GPU.

But there is always a possibility of just a bad card or something else wrong with the system.

So, I can not say for sure that re-flowing the GPU is a good idea in your case. You may have to take it to a local computer shop that specializes in repairs for laptops and have them diagnose it. To be safe.

If the system were mine, I would try re-flowing the gpu .. the heat sinks need new thermal compound applied IMO and if have done it so many times it does not take me very long to do it.. but as I said before this could render your laptop useless. so my suggestion is if it is working and you are not sure about doing it yourself .. get a usb wifi card.. and just use it that way.

its better than not having a laptop at all... and the DV9000's with the 17" screen were expensive and I'm sure would be very expensive to replace

My daughter has an HP6815nr laptop. She had never used an external monitor or projector while under warranty, but now needs it. It seems to be totally non-functional. When she connects an external monitor or projector, then hits the function key to switch to it, the resolution of the built-in monitor changes, but the external monitor displays a "No signal" message. Do you know if the video chip issues you discuss here could be the cause?

Blair,

If there is video on the LCD and there does not seem to be any other issues with the system .. I would suspect that it is not the Nvidia issue ... What shows up in display properties? as well as monitors under Device Manager?

I take it you are using just a standard D shell vga out.

The computer plays video on the LCD flawlessly. The display settings indicates "Generic PNP Monitor on Nvidia GEFORCE 7150m/nforce 630m". Device manager display settings shows two identical lines, each "Generic PNP monitor" when connected to the external monitor. Thanks for your advice that it is not the same hardware issue.

The connection: standard "D" VGA analog out to the external monitor.

Vista OS, display settings "Generic PNP monitor on Nvidia GEFORCE 7150m/nforce 630m". Device manager shows two identical lines "Generic PNP Monitor". Thanks for your advice that this is most likely not the chip hardware.

I have a DV9000 series which is experiencing some interesting problems. When ever I power it up I get greeted with a yellowish fuzzy display on the LCD along with four black horizontal lines running accross it. I have no idea what is causing this, could it be related to the GPU? Prior to this issue the laptop would work for a little while then reboot itself but lately I haven't been able to make out anything on the screen due to the strange display I'm experiencing as noted at the beginning of my post. Does anyone have any suggestions or have similar experiences to this? Most have complained about a blue screen or no display at all however this isn't the case with me. To note, plugging in an external monitor source fails to display anything at all.

Informative post. Are you always using the term "processor" to refer to the Nvidia chip? Also are you using thermal compound on top of the quarter. It wasn't quite clear to me.

Jim

Shterk,

Unfortunately, from what you are writing it does sound like either the video chip is having a problem or you are suffering from the BGA issue, The Rebooting issue is also a sign that the system is over heating the fan could probably use a good cleaning .. and the best way I know how to do that is to take it apart ...

Take a look at the DV9000 tear-down guide and judge for your self if this is something you want to attempt or not...

Good Luck

Jim,

When I use Processor it is referring to the AMD /(or) Intel Processor ... when Referring to the Video Processor or GPU (Graphics Processing Unit)

The Nvidia GPU is the cause of all the issue I have come across YMMV... (Your Mileage May Very)

The Quarter is used to gauge the transfer of heat to the GPU. After the GPU has been re-flowed the Quarter is no longer needed and removed ... I put the ARTIC silver on the bottom of the Quarter to help the heat transfer from the quarter to the GPU.. The solder on top of the Quarter allows me to see when the temp has gotten hot enough to melt solder which is what we are trying to do melt the Solder joints under the GPU to reattach to the system boar.

Hope that explains it a little better.

I did take the laptop apart and inspected the fan, much to my surprise it was pretty clean so a build up of dust was not an issue.
What is the BGA issue by the way?

Never mind about the BGA, just saw what it meant!
I'm wondering whether the strange display is caused by the graphics chip or if it's to do with the screen components? I don't exactly want to attempt a reflow on the chip if that isn't the cause of my display problems. Thanks for your assistance CE, much appreciated.

After removing the system board, I noticed a clear plastic wrap of some sort covering certain areas of the system board including the area underneath the Nvidia chip. (on the flip side of the board) I was concerned about applying the heat gun in this area. Did your motherboard have this plastic covering? Should I be concerned about applying heat there?

Thx

Jim - good post

Jim,

Thanks for pointing that out,

Yes I would remove all the plastic from the areas that will get hot.. Other wise you will have a mess on your hands not only will the plastic (wrap) melt and create a mess but you will also have a bad smell for a while.

Good catch .. I will add a note to remove this before trying to re-flow the bga.

Just a little clarification .... After having performing the suggested fixes and wanting to test for the HP logo without putting the whole thing back together again, are the following actions all that are neccessary before hitting the power button on the bezel? I plan on leaving the memory in but the hard disk out.

1. re-attach left ribbon cable to the Quick Launch Bezel

2. re-attach the two power connections to the system board

3. re-attach the little ribbon cable from bezel to LCD

4. connect to AC power

5. hit power button on bezel

Thx,

Jim

Jim,

the quick launch bezel is not needed to just test ... just the power button cable

you can either use the power from the wall out let or if you battery is still good just attach that

so you dont have to worry about the other cables .. other wise yes the power cables need to be reattached.

and attach the lcd .. and try it ..

Good Luck

Hi
I'm very interested in this method because i got pavilion dv9500
and its screen died(by died i mean it shows just lines black and white very thin)
I got external monitor(working fine after disconnecting the lcd screen from the laptop)
so i would like to ask is this the solution for my problem
its stupid to pay $$$$$ for service in my case i think

tun4o,

If the external monitor works .. I would say this may not help you.

It sounds like to me you actualy hav an lcd issue mor than the systmeboard issue.

But I can not say for absolutely sure ...

Good Luck

i've been a computer tech for almost 10 years now. and typically i just find the info i need, no matter how handy or informative and go with it.
i have never posted on a fix such as this.

this fix is absolutely amazing. i have a dv2000 that was getting average of 68c on my gpu. with more intensive programs.. upwards of 90c. too hot. i didnt have to reflow, but i did find a 1951 penny. polished it clean with brasso and a wire brush. used 91% alcohol to clean all surfaces. thermal pasted everything down and now after almost two days.. the highest temp i've got is 60c. on gpu. AWSOME! excellent fix.
and btw the reflow method with the quarter and wire is really cool.
anyway. thanks for the great fix! love it.

thanks
rob

First off, thanks for your time and the great info.
Our problem is with a 1yr and 35 day old HP Pavilion dv5-1140. Thought the lcd inverter was bad, as the left side of screen was flickering and going dim, now both sides dim. However, if you apply finger tip pressure to the bezel below the screen, it will brighten back up sometimes (inverter area??).
HP wants $398, as they don't believe us when we say it was happening during the warranty.
Question is: the HP tech had us start it up in Safe mode...we did, and no flickering/dimming. So, now we wonder if it really is the inverter?
Thanks,
Randy

First off, thanks for this info...great fix.
Question on a HP Pavilion dv5-1140 that's 1 yr and 35 days old. Left half of the screen started dimming 3 months ago and now the right half. If you apply fingertip pressure to the bottom of the lcd (bezel area) it will brighten back up...also if you press on upper left corner of frame by power button. Our first thought was lcd inverter...however, HP tech had us do the Safe Mode start, and, then the screen is bright/fine.
HP says hardware problem and we'll fix it for $398.
Do you think it's just the inverter, inverter contacts, or is it the GPU..which is the only reason I can think HP wants $398 to fix it?
Thanks,
Randy

Randy,

Wow, to be honest you have me dumb founded here .. I realldy am not sure what is going on with your laptop.. I have not seen those types of symptoms with the exception of a back light going out. but if it is as you say in safe mode it has full brightness try this. Make sure it is pluged it to AC boot up like normal and turn up the brightness of the screen as far as it will go .. I am using a dv2500 right now and the keys are Fn (function) and f8 if there is no filcker and the screen is bright and clear try dimming it a bit .. if it starts to flake out it could be the back light going out or the inverter .. I think safemode turns off all power management for the lcd back light.

Good luck hop this helps.

Just wanted to say thanks. This method seems to have worked again. My dv6000 is up and running again. I just wish that I had checked the temps before I had to do this.

Thanks, thanks, thanks.
My dv9000 works again after 6 months thanks to your method.

Hey!!

Thanks a lot for posting this, helped me fix my 4 year old dv6000. It had been broken for 1 year and it is now working again. Was actually, till a couple of days ago... Fixed it at the end of January and the other day it stopped working again.Seems to be the same problem, ventilator turns on, so do the wireless and most other buttons, but the screen is black. So, i tried redoing everything, the coin, new paste and all that and now, it is up and running again. However, am i doing something wrong? Can it be that i will have to change the coin and the paste every month?I did everything you've described, with the only exception that i used a hard drier instead of a heat gun. Could that have been it? any thoughts? Thanks!

thank you sooooo much!! the reflow saved my girlfriends laptop. she missed the extended warranty but hp said they'd fix it for $259 plus shipping. your teardown guide was excellent, the only thing (i think) that hasnt been mentioned is the 2 nuts next to the wireless card, they need to be removed to take out the bottom half of the keyboard. oh and that the 2 connectors to the wireless card just pop on and off, almost crapped my pants when i thought i broke a solder joint...lol. i used 95/5 plumbing solder (a small piece, pounded flat) instead of the electronic solder. the melting point is higher with the 95/5 so be careful if using it. used a 1959 penny grinded flat with a dremel and artic silver 5.

thank you once again, i'll be sending a few bucks your way!

I have a HP DV1000 with the same problem. Will this work for my computer also?

Rafael,

I have not had the dv1000's in so I can't be sure if it will or not ..

so, if you perform the re-flow and it works let us know.

i'v been reflowing laptops for about a year now using basicly the same way as you do.they work great
but hear resent for some reason i will reflow them and they will only last maybe aweek or so. do you know of a more affective fix or more agresive fix maybe more heat or do you think maybe im just getting to confortable and not getting it done right. at this point im at a lose i have 5 coming back and cant think of whats wrong.
any ideals.

Anonymous,

I have had a very few that I have had to re-flow a couple of times. My assumption is if I have to re-flow it more than 2 times the system either needs a new board or to be sent out to a company that specializes in re-BGA. It could be the ones that have the red compound and that tends to heat up and separate the chip again. If they do not hold you could try a bit of weight on the chip during re-flow with a little more heat (I would be very carefull with more heat though) It could warp the system board or melt one of the connectors. Hope this helps a little bit for you.

i have a dv2416us, just got its mobo changed, anf it is firing up to 80C, ill be doing this with a penny, (ONE CENT RIGHT?) but the thermal paste i will use will be different, will that be ok?

and lastly, do i have to put thermal compound on top of the penny? where the heat sink and the penny meet?
ynx in advance. actually mine doesnt need re-flow, just doing this to extend its life, it goeas up to 80 creepin degrees celsius

igo,

Yes it is 1 cent. and make sure it is older so that it as a high amount of copper in it. and yes you would want to use thermal compound (of your choice) on both sides of the copper to ensure you have good contact on both sides.

Good Luck

tnx very much.. would this really lower my temp? tnx alot.. i will be using a 1963, is that good? do i have to smooth it? ive got a 1966 and 1963, i smooth the 1966, what would you prefer to use?

isnt a penny too thin for it to be able to touch the heat sink? or is it just enough? will i just use 1 penny?

ce, tnx very much, i formerly was getting an average of 83 celsius, and now! i got 59! tns very much, hope my notebook would last for a year or more.. yore awsome, i used the 1966, smoothed and cleaned, tnx!

igo
cheers

Hi,
I have a HP dv6000z series that broke and was showing the above mentioned symptoms. I used the tutorial, however due to a lack of a proper heat gun I had to use a normal hairdrier. With that and applying some small pressure over the GPU I have fixed it and now I am typing with the HP. So thanks for the tutorials. Recently I came across another dv6400 series which, however, had the red BGA on the corners of the graphic card. I didn't succeed the first time. But the second time I brought the hairdrier closer to the GPU, and after the initial 10 minutes heating, I placed a 2 kilogram weight gently on top of the GPU, and left it like that for 30 mins. And It worked! Just make sure u place the motherboard in such a way that would spread the weight more evenly and avoid any damage on the underside of the motherboard.

Hi,
Did anybody have a display problem after re-flowing the GPU of a DV6000(the type with a red BGA)? The display runs normally and then after 30 mins or so, the screen fades a bit, and shows more blue color and faded horizontal stripes. I had this problem appearing 3 days after the actual re-flow. I don;t have that lap top with me so to check right now but do you think this can be caused by the re-flow itself or is it just a loose display cable? Also is 55-57 celzius a normal GPU temperature in idle, and 62-72 during gameplay (nvidia 6150)?
Thanks everybody.

Emil,

Congradulations on getting one of them fixed up.

As far as the Red Compound it has been rare but has caused me some porblems as well you may have not gotten enough heat applied with the hair dryer to full re-flow the bga properly and the red compound may be expanding with the temp increase from the GPU causing the issue you are seeing ..

I am working on a DV9000 this week with the red compound trying to remove or midigate the issue .. I will try to let eery on know how it goes.

is a temperature of 62 celsius ok? ce pls answer me, tnx in advance

Igo,

Most folks have been reporting a GPU temp in the range of 40 to 50c ... so your look a bit high but there are reports of over 80 deg c before using the penny so you are probably in an ok range.

My DV2000 with the Nvidia GeForce 8400M GS un-modifyed is running 63 deg c at idle right now .. so I may be just replacing the thermal compound on this one over the week end.

so will my dv2000 be ok for the time to pass? i get an average of 62 when i use it, i really use it hard, no games but i use it with applications on

This was amazing! I actually fixed an HP Pavilion dv6000 with this method about 3 days ago and I still can't believe it. I'm dirt poor so here's what I did. I found a 1968 penny in my change jar and rubbed it outside on the pavement. Cleaned it and applied a healing ointment for dry skin on the penny, heat sink, and chip. Connected the power, but no dice. After re-assembling the laptop I was about to call it quits when I noticed you could see the back of the graphics chip from the RAM cover. I grabbed my fiance's lucky 1976 bicentennial quarter and her blow dryer and went to work. When I started burning my hands I said "There has to be another way!" So I found this 20 year old hand-me-down soldering pen and applied light pressure on the quarter till I could touch the surface and say "Wow... that's pretty hot." Before I closed everything up I pushed down on the chip with a clean finger. I was actually pretty pessimistic even though (IMO) I had done a great job of improvising. After what seemed to be the longest 3 1/2 seconds of darkness, the monitor miraculously turned on. Angels started singing and everything. I installed the most current bios and had it on for hours trying to get the wireless module to work but no dice. I must have rebooted it 20 times too, and days later it's still going strong. I've seen some things in my day but this one here is for the books. Thank you for one of the funnest and greatest adventures in my technical career. Sincerely, Ralphie³. "Where there's a will, there's a way." And oh yeah go GNU/Linux!

hello you guys, after much searching to find a cure for the wireless problem I finally found this thread, awesome stuff, this was the kind of fix I was looking for (getting your hands dirty :P those are the best fixes).

I did the penny thing (smoothed) just to prevent further problems, and let me tell you, it worked like a charm; in iddle, with windows xp fresh installed it lowered the gpu's temperature from 69C to 42C and after 30 minutes of doing a benchmark the temp raised to 65C and stayed there.

I believe that the wireless problem lies on the other nVidia chip (nForce) which is the one that controls the network and that stuff. I dont see the connection between the gpu and the wireless problem. Also it now comes with the red plastic underneath the chip (similar as the gpu) so probably it was added by the manufacturer in order to prevent the wireless problem.

Has anybody fixed the wireless problem (orange light) by using this method? please let me know.

Special thanks to the owner of this tutorial, awesome stuff!!

thanks man.

Juan,

I'm glad your temp's are down now ... to be honest I have found the red compound on all of the nvidia chips that HP tried to fix the sep issues but the GPU seems to have the control's for a lot of the systems including the Wireless card.. of the systems I have done this repair on it has fixed the wireless issues as well (ie. the orange light) ... as always YMMV (your milage may very)

Good Luck.

Well I just reworked one of three DV6000 and I'm 1 for 1. You are a genius!!!!! 2 more to go then just need to order a few more parts for them all and I'll have al my laptops back up and running again. You just saved me a but load of money in replacing computers over something HP could have easily prevented in the manufacturing process.

Your website really help me on fixing my Dv2750ee. Thanks!

I was wondering why my temps are still in between (idle state) 54C to 59C on power saver mode and 59C - 62C on Balance power settings. i did not used a copper coin because there is no such coin here in my place but i found a copper shim that exactly the thickness of 1 penny. i also used artic silver 5 as thermal compound.

I'm still getting 70C inj ust playing some facebook games alone. is this normal? what else can i do to lower my temps? Thanks you in advance!

Congrat's on fixing your DV2750 I am not sure why you are still getting the higher temp's ..But I have experianced the same thing with a DV9000 that I just repaired .. it is still getting temps of 67C as well but is running great .. It could be that the copper is not fully connecting with the Heat Sink but I am not sure .. for you I would keep an eye on the temps and make sure they do not increase over time.

ce,, can i ask you a question, are my temps normal.. idle 53-58.. work load.. (facebook yahoo etc..) 60. online game 61-67.. are those in safe zones? pls answer me

Anonymous,

I have not done any long term testing on the GPU Temp's I do know the normal temp for them have been in the range of 60 deg C before the Copper replacement but I have not do much testing after the replacement. It is possible one of our readers may have better information for you

Hi I've got a DV6000 with this issue and I'm confused as to what part the quarter plays with regards to the penny trick. Do you do the penny with thermal paste trick first and if that doesn't work toss the quarter onto the penny and heat it up or do you remove the penny for the quarter trick? Thanks for the help!

Anonymous,
*** Some Folks are confused as to what does the Quarter sized piece of metal and the silver solder do. Well this is my (back yard mechanic) attempt at gaugeing the heat that will be transfered to the video chip and the BGA below the chip. If the metal on top gets hot enough to melt the silver solder odds are good that the chip is getting hot enough to melt the BGA and effectivly re-joining the chip to the system board. **

Remove the quarter after the board has cooled down and only use the penny between the GPU and Heat sink ..

Good Luck

Thanks for the quick response. I'm going to try both the quarter and penny fix. Can you tell me if I can use the arctic silver for both fixes? I see some is applied on the back of the quarter before heating it up. I assume I then remove the quarter and apply some more for the penny fix? Thanks again.

i have done the penny.. my former temps were 83-85 at idle.. and 90-100 at work load.. i actually dont need a reflow.. just did this to prevent future problems.. my temp now are 52-58 at idle.. and 60-63 at load like yahoo and others and 63-67 at online games.. i just sont know if im in the safe zone already. found other forums, most of them saying 70 is still okay for a full load, but others look 70 as a high one. im really confused. though the majority says that 70 is still normal but its quite warm already. really confused

hi ce.. im new here. i just bought an arctic silver 5. ill put it in my dv2000. considering that my gpu (geforce go 6150) is really small in the mobo, how much will i put? and how will i put it? can you pls explain to me briefly as not to damage my gpu. tnx

Thank you for taking the time to write, I'm glad to see new folks stop by.

As far as the artic silver, a little bit goes along way with that stuff .. all you need is a very fine layer on top of the gpu you dont need very much gooped on like the manufacturer does. just enough to fill the very small gaps between the metals make sure you have it any where you want heat to be transfered ...

What I would do is a small dab of the artic silver and smooth it to a fine layer with a credit card.

hope this helps.

you did help a lot :D
do i have to just on top of the card? or even the edges of the card? (the card only, the small one) and lasty, how about on the penny? (yup i did it, great help, but because the thermal compund i used seems to be crap) how thick do i hace to put on it in the opposite side where the heatsink would touch it?
tnx very much

ok so do not put thermal paste on the green part of the Nvidia GPU chip just the top part of the chip that will touch the penny or heat sink.. on the top of the penny where it will meet the heat sink just a little dab will do as well.. treat thermal paste specificlay artic silver like gold use it sparingly..

Good luck

tnx ce, i have read forums and it takes 200 hours for the as5 to cure up, so i think it would increase my temps at the earlier times? and can i ask you, have you ever done this, you used another thermal compound, but it seems temps still idle at 60+, and changed it to as5, suddenly, temps would go down, have you experienced that?

Would a 1977 canadian penny work better with 98% copper and 3.24 grams? It probably doesn't but I'm curious to know. The US pennies I found are around 3.1 to 3.2 grams so would the 3% more copper and more mass make a difference for better or for worse theoretically?

To be honest I would think that it would not make that much of a difference ... but IMO the more copper the better.. for heat transfer to the heat sink.

So the first fix lasted from 12/31 to 4/8. I just reran the fix with the longer heating times that you are now recommending and it is back working again.

If it happens again I may opt for the professional reflow to hopefully get a more permanent solution.

Thanks for keeping up the blog!

Thank you so much for the video guide! I just picked up a used tx1417cl tablet this past weekend, and it of course crapped out on me today! I wish I had researched it more thoroughly before buying it, but with your video I have brought it back to life! It looks like the former owner tried to use just 2 thin copper shims, and a ton of heat sink compound previously. Luckily I had all the items on hand to try your method.

I did take a piece of copper tubing, cut it open and flattened it out, then I cut out a 1" square piece, and finished it by polishing it with my dremel to clean all the junk off of it. With the addition of some thin layers of Artic Silver and my new larger shim, it seems to be 100% operational now. I think now is the time to re-sell it before it does this thing again. I think I'll go with a more reliable brand computer this next time! Thanks again for the guide!

I used to work at a reflow shop, and was one of seven guys (out of twenty) who worked on nothing but HP's, we had so many. A couple things to note.

1.) If your laptop is powering off within a second or so of being turned on, it is also the Northbridge (or possibly the processor, but probably not).

2.) If you're getting bad video issues that aren't caused by the LCD or LCd cable (ie white screen, split-screen, or garbage) it is the GPU, if your laptop has a GPU, which is the chip to left of the northbridge. If you don't have a GPU, it's the bloody northbridge.

3.) If your USB ports, webcam, sound, ethernet, etc don't work, it's the southbridge, which is under the wifi card. This is a lot rarer, and you'll more than likely kill the board the rest of the way by using these methods to fix, so I would really recommend sending it out or dealing with a partially functioning laptop.

4.)If one of your RAM slots has failed, if it is an AMD board it is the processor, if it is an Intel board it is the northbridge. It is almost never the slots themselves, at least on any HP I've ever worked on. I've heard different about some of the other brands.

5.) Stick the board in a low-temp oven for at least four hours before reflow. That wont fix it, but it will bake the moisture out of the board so it wont warp when you apply heat from the heatgun. If your board warps, it's toast, the layers of the PCB will short everything in the area of the warp, and there's nothing you can do about it.

6.) These boards can take a surprising beating. If you really don't want to spend the money, keep trying until the board is black. Even if it gets browned around the edges it's still probably fine. Just be sure you don't dislocate any of those fifty-billion tiny capacitors.

7.) No power issues are also sometimes caused by the southbridge or the Super-IO (don't reflow the super-IO, replace it, and good luck, it's a bitch.) More often, however, it's a cap or a transistor on the V+ line. If you know what you're doing, it's a super-easy fix, but be sure and replace the transistor with a diode. HP used transistors instead because they're cheaper, but they suck and fail, and a diode is what you need.

Good luck! In principle, this method works similar to a reflow machine, but is way cheaper. Just be careful to keep the temperature as even as possible on both the top and the bottom of the board.

Any questions, email siekomonki at gmail.

I'm not sure which chip it is on my board because the chip in the position of the circled chip in the picture doesn't have nvidia labeled on it and the chip in the position to the left does however it doesn't have the thermal pad and seems to have a direct contact with the heat sink.

Hey,
I have an HP pavilion dv2000.
It is 3 years old, so no guarantee.
When I hit the "on/off" button, all the buttons have light but the screen does not light.
If I hit the "on/off" button again, it doesn't go off. To make it go off, I have to remove the battery.
Is the only method to repair this dismanteling the laptop and putting the penny and all that complicated stuff?
Isn't there an easier method?
I am not a technology expert at all, I don't know anything about laptops, so I'm sure that if I try that, I will probably mess up and kill the computer.
Please answer.

Anonymous,

thank you for writing .... to me it sounds like you are experiencing the issues outlined in this post ... and yes that may be the only way ... if you want to get it to work temporarily you could try taking the keyboard off and using a hair dryer to heat up the system board right under where the 5,6,and t keys are .. but don't get it hot enough to melt anything... this might work for 1 or 2 boot ups .. but will not work for any longer than that.... as far as having to remove the battery to get it to turn off ... once on hold the power button for longer than 5 seconds and it will turn off...

Good Luck...

I have a dv6000, It has other issues. I also have, the infamous Qosmio F15. Used a heat gun twice, and worked both times, but did not pass the test of time. Few weeks, few days. I have nothing to lose, but a shaved penny, witch I did not use before. Thought maybe the penny would become loose. I put a penny in to see, it's pretty tight. I think, that's the only thing that was missing.

i have a dv6000 with the blank screen blue lights restarts all the time and dont see the hard drive spin up i tried the heat gun to heat the gpu up and surrounding area and put it back together and its still black no screen and i followed your directions to the T

Todd,

Unfortunately some times it just does not work at all ... even with reflowing the GPU in those instances .. it is best to hit ebay and get a replacement motherboard for your computer.

acually i think there maybe a problem with my heat gun it isnt even melting solder i guess its either time for a new heat gun or motherboard one of the 2

Just wondering on your history lesson about the pennies... the pre 1982 are made with 95% copper, and 15% zinc and other metals...

95% + 15% = 110%

awesome post to fix these laptops

I fixed my dv6815nr yesterday with this method..Worked like a charm..Only I used two copper shims I ordered off ebay cuz I didn't find this fix until the day after I fixed it..I also used Dynex Silver Thermal Compound..Hope that is okay because I didn't see any Arctic Silver at the local Best Buy store..
For startes the history on my pc started with a usb port that stopped working..I thought it was because I was trying to unlock a cell phone and was using that port and messed the driver up for it..No biggie I had 2 more that still worked..Next my dvd rom quit..not sure when cuz I hardly ever use it..then I had the symptons where it would constantly try to start then shut down before booting over and over again..Next it was lcd worked when it wanted and finally quit all together..So started using tv using a serial cable for a monitor..Then wifi quit working and I started using wired ethernet..Then ethernet quit working too..I finally took the chance and fixed it..Everything is back working..so good not to have to strain my eyes on warped graphics on the tv and tripping over ethernet wire..Oh yeah make sure to open up ur fan and clean inside it really good..those little black fins on the outside that look all clean on the outside were clogged solid on the inside..the heat wasn't escaping..

Hello,

I have a DV6105us and have the following issue's:

1) The wireless light is always yellow.

2) The system will some times boot (this is ether after a long cool down or after a few reboots).

3) The system will or can not see the wireless card.

On boot the system will power on all the blue lights turn on and some times i will hear the HD sniping, but most times not. Some times the system will stay on and not reboot, just sit there Intel i hard shutdown (hold power for 5+ secs). The other part of the time is the system will keep rebooting it self (some times 10 times or more) Intel it actual posts.

My question is this the GPU problem that is described or is it somewhat more?

Thank you for your time,
Ben G.

Ngear / Ben,

All of the symptoms you listed are classic signs of the GPU issue ... these will show up when the GPU is going out.. " Wireless light always yellow" " The system can not see the wireless card "

And actualy when the GPU spearates fully the "system will power on all blue lights turn on and no video"

Good luck with your repairs... Hopefully this site will help you with fixing your DV6000

Hello,

Thank you for helping me. This will be my first time in side a laptop and need to buy a heating iron b4 i start. will post back if this works or not (or if i just kill the board lol).

Thank you for your time,
Ben G.

I just did the penny fix on my DV6405us and so far so good (except for the 4 screws I left out while putting it back together) I had both problems, no pic and no wifi. The wifi has been down for a long time. This did not fix the Wifi problem. Any suggestions?

I have fixed a GPU on an Xbox with an eraser, the GPU on a Dell XPS laptop by backing the GPU and now my HP with a PENNY. I love these cheep fixes. THANKS FOR THE HELP

hi all,

I have applied the reflow process but still getting the black screen on my HP dv6000 laptop. I'm a bit dubious that heating is performed sufficiently bcoz I'm using the hair drier from 3-4'' away for 2-3 minutes(front and back side). When plugin the AC blue lights on, fan starts up and same issue with black screen . If I've damaged the motherboard why would fans other lights turns on ??


BTW how much degrees should I apply on GPU I'll try to measure it with thermometer.

REgards,

I've used a hair blower at a distance of 1" from the GPU, periodically heating from underneath. Altogether 10 to 15 minutes of heating and it worked so far. There are small chances u can damage your mother board with a hair blower, but just in case watch over the smell of burned plastic. Adjust distance accordingly.

I brought the wireless on my Presario V6000 back to life by removing the motherboard. I then cooked the two ball grid array chips with our hot air heat tool (230 degrees C or until 63/37 lead solder would smear/melt on the chip tops) for about 2 minutes each. These chips had the red epoxy around their perimeter, I did not mess with the epoxy. I used metal shields to avoid melting adjacent components. Then replaced the white heatsink pad on the GPU with a .040 thick copper shim, .060 is OK and a standard thickness. then gooed all heat sink surfaces with regular white heat sink paste. This brought the wireless back to life. Also removed & disassembled the power connector (re-sprung the minus sides) and replaced the keyboard. From junk to a nice laptop.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!

my sister's laptop (compag F700) was diagnosed as dead by everyone i knew who worked with computers.

Well talked to HP yesterday regarding this issue, its dv6400a where everything was working, except for the wireless card - always orange light and occasionally would be no display on boot but very seldom.

Unfortunately the part number of this laptop doesnt fit the required ones for the class action lawsuit against nvidia for a free hp replacement laptop though I feel this really should be included.

Anyways, attempted this trick yesterday, inserted the penny, and laptop started up just fine, but still the constant orange light, it worked all night - laptop went to sleep over night, woke up this morning and worked for a little bit and upon falling asleep the 2nd time it will no longer boot, constant 1 long beep and 2 short beeps (gpu error code)

Attempting 2nd time at reflowing it.

all lights on,no display,wireless light amber.and in a boot loop every 10 seconds.
to cut a long story short i managed to fix it with a gas pen torch after two attempts.the second attempt using more heat...........
so if it fails to work...try it again.whats there to loose??.iv been doing a stress test for the last four hours.results so far
CPU...54C
GPU...68C
the max iv seen the gpu climb to is 72c
one annoying thing is the wireless is still dead. is there any other chip that i could heat up to fix this??
failing that i will have to get a usb adapter and disable the amber light.

i hv compaq V3000, and my problem is cannot turn on.when i press on button nothing happened.i think start button problem, test start button with other laptop can use normally... can u help me...

i have a hp pavilion tx 2500. when switched on all the lights come on and then goes of instantly.
i really need help in solving the fault.
i hope you'll be of help.
thanks

I have an HP dv4. The screen was broken, but I could still view picture on about 1/3 of it. I purchased a replacement screen, hooked it up, and it lights up with no picture, just blank/black. I re-attached old screen and it still works. I sent new screen back and got another and still the same problem.Do you have any suggestions as to why this is, or what to do?

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